REG/REC units

[fogrider]

I need a new unit, this is proving to be a problem - no originals and those I have seen for sale have 65mm centres for the screws, not 80mm like the original. OK, that can be got round, but I'm also told that units for the VFR750 are no good as they are carb fed bikes, got to be for an EFi bike, like the PGM F1.
I suggested a VFR800 Fix or later Blackbird would be OK, can't find anyone who agrees one of them would do.
So, for now, I'm stumped.
Anyone fitted a non original that has proved OK? Any comments will be very helpful.
Regards, Terry.

[fogrider]

Thanks Larry, that's helpful info, I tried Rex's speed shop again and he is coming back to me , today hopefully, as to wether the Blackbird unit ( for EFi) is OK, it would seem so, I assume the R1 is EFi ?, never had one, Honda's my favourite Jap !

[fogrider]

That's amazing stuff given out to the troops, I had no idea, my interest in WW2 is Europe, I've lear'nt something here and will ensure it's Japanese now !

[fogrider]

It occurred to me that there was a test chart for the unit in my Haynes manual for my VFR750.Comparing the P15-7 one with the VFR, big difference. The RC45 shows the R/H side boxes as infinity. The VFR one gives actual readings.
Maybe carbs/EFi difference ?
The other thing is, both those charts set Kohms for the test, yet two of the on-line proceedures I found were with the diode setting.
Rex's speed shop say they have one that should do, but that's not like saying "this is correct". I don't want to fry the loom or the alternator.
My local bike shop have a catalogue of reg/regs, many look identical, two plugs, 3 yellows, 2 green/2 red etc, but why so many variations? Is it just plug type and bolt centres ? Or resistance variations ?
I still think a Blackbird will do, going to try a breaker and see if they will let me do the checks as per 15-7 to see how they compare.
Work in progress !
Larry, are Americans still Yanks ? Had to ask !

[fogrider]

Thanks for that, I had looked at their site but didn't see one listed for the RC45, will look again, properly !

[Busy Little Shop]

Work in progress !
Larry, are Americans still Yanks ? Had to ask !

I don't mind because America is also a work in progress... we began as
American colonist are a race of convicts who ought to be thankful for anything
the King allows then short of hanging... to the WW2 cry the Yanks are over
paid, over sexed and over here... all in all America is not herself unless she is
engaged in high moral ground...

[fogrider]

The Electrex RR58 doesn't have the 2 sets of leads so can't make the wiring loom reach. Got back to Rex's speed shop and they can supply the equivalent of RR58 but with the 2 pairs of leads. Apparently as long as there is 2 reds, 2 greens, it will be suitable for the output. Most of the unit differences are simply bolt holes and plug types.
I'm confident Rex's are supplying the right one. I believe it will be a Mosfet one.

Regards all,
A 'Limey ', over the pond !

[fogrider]

Thanks VFx, I've read the Newbie stuff, it all fits into place with what I have been told by the different firms I have rung,.
Larry's R1 unit sounds good, I think from what Rex's speed shop said what they're sending me will be a similar electrical spec but I will have to replace the two connector blocks. (the yellow 3 block was already direct wired anyway)
I noticed Electrex can supply a bolt hole adaptor which is also an extra heat sink. I will make one up to fit the new unit.
Hopefully, this will cure the red blink and brief stumble .
Watch this space !

[fogrider]

After all the ringing around and posts on here , I'm now inclined to agree with you both about EFi and non EFi, it seems to be that the alternators on EFi bikes are fairly big output which is why, as explained by Rex's speed shop, the RVF Reg/rec has 2 reds and 2 greens, when many have just one red, one green. Not different internally, just allowing for heavier wiring loads.
Why the 3 yellows in the loom are so puny contradicts that but maybe not so much load on each one ?
Hopefully up and running next week.
Regards,
Terry

[fogrider]

That makes perfect sense, thanks, I understand the world of reg/recs at last !

[fogrider]

New battery in, new reg/rec fitted (RR62), battery at 13.2, start engine, charge voltage steadies at 14.3. It looks good, but the 3 yellows still get pretty hot, should they ?
also the reg/rec got warm.
Not sure I'm happy about that, that's with the bodywork off so everything's out in the air. No smoke anyway........
The red blink is not as obvious as before, did notice that the rev ctr needle dropped at the same instant as the blink.
Switched off and did the bridge wire, switch on - permanent red light.
Link out and switch on - red light 2 secs, then off.
Is this good or bad ?

Regards all, Terry

[Busy Little Shop]

Nice work Terry a steady 14.3 is good news...

Pretty hot is open to interruption whereas numbers are not... a mini digital
thermometer of each wire in operation will provide hard numbers...

For some faults like a defect pressure sensor the engine must run briefly
before the abnormality can be detected...

When turning the ignition switch on, the warning lamp goes on for several
seconds while the system checks itself...

[fogrider]

Well, I've cut back and cleaned the ends of the 3 yellows, crimped new terminals on and soldered them.
Run the engine and the 3 yellows get hot pretty quick, too hot to keep fingers on for long and the insulation goes soft and sticky.
Temp tester says around 50 to 60 deg c. (hard to keep right on the wires).

This can't be right but I don't know what else to check. Earths are good, battery is new and still stood at 13.0 volts so the system should not be be banging big current in.

New battery, new reg/rec, what have I missed ?

Regards all, Terry.

[fogrider]

Thanks vx, you must be psychic ! I went back and unclipped the loom to pull a bit more yellow free . I noticed a bulge in the yellows about 6" back .
Then I discovered that there was a previous repair, replacing the last 6" but with wire that had HALF the capacity.

ie original loom 32x7thou, added bits - 14x10thou.

Hopefully, that was the problem. I cut the 3 yellows off the old reg/rec and soldered them onto the loom then refitted the plug, crimped and soldered.

Watch this space, with any luck it will resolve the blinking PGM light aswell.

Regards all, Terry
East Yorks.

[fogrider]

I get the theory Moto 16 but in practice things are different. I went by Vehicle Wiring Products catalogue, they show a 32x0.2 being 1sq mm, a 14x0.3 also as 1sq.mm, but the 32 is rated at 16.5 amps and the 14 as 8.75.

Don't know why, but that's what they supply.

I've fired it up and the wires no longer get hot. Success ! The previous owner (unknown name) in Germany had done a crap repair..out of sight.

Except, the PGM light still blinks occasionaly as she warms up. There is a little bit of 'popping' from the silencer which will be weakness somewhere at the bottom end. The L/H idle pot has mastic around the wires so I think he's been in there too.

Next job, the CO2 readings. Maybe that will sort the blinkin' light.

Regards all, Terry