Had another ride: at low revs / small throttle openings it's almost on or off. I believe that's typical ? Another issue that happens each time is a brief cutting out in conjunction with the PGM light flashing on but only when she's still cold. I assume it's something connected with the coolant temperature sensor. But not sure where it is, can anyone pass any advice on this ?
Rides perfect when hot.
Regards all,
Terry.
PGM-FI
Moderators: StephenRC45, Dave45
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Busy Little Shop
- Advanced Member
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:07 am
- Location: California USA
Re: PGM-FI
e]
Terry
I've racked up 58K miles and I've collected and studied over 146 magazines RC45 articles...
Some magazine testers complained about the RC45 slight off idle
jerkiness while others praised the furl injection as flawless... I
discovered the main difference was the amount of slack in the chain...
True to their racing heritage the RC45 feature no cush
drives... the rear sprocket is bolted directly to the hub... this
affords a more direct feel between throttle and the tires contact
patch... it does so at the expense of chain life and set up... the
chain slack must be set at the absolute minimum prescribe by Honda or
an abrupt off idle jerkiness a key element of instantaneous fuel
injection may be magnified by the seat of your pants... it also helps
to be smooth at the critical on off throttle transitions... The RC45
is not only sensitive what you do but how you do it to...
If the PGM light winks at low RPMs the voltage going into the battery is
low... check for over heated rec/reg connections...
What causes melted connections is corrosion that builds up between the
quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic
and insulation and it may go as far to cause a fire...
Terry
I've racked up 58K miles and I've collected and studied over 146 magazines RC45 articles...
Some magazine testers complained about the RC45 slight off idle
jerkiness while others praised the furl injection as flawless... I
discovered the main difference was the amount of slack in the chain...
True to their racing heritage the RC45 feature no cush
drives... the rear sprocket is bolted directly to the hub... this
affords a more direct feel between throttle and the tires contact
patch... it does so at the expense of chain life and set up... the
chain slack must be set at the absolute minimum prescribe by Honda or
an abrupt off idle jerkiness a key element of instantaneous fuel
injection may be magnified by the seat of your pants... it also helps
to be smooth at the critical on off throttle transitions... The RC45
is not only sensitive what you do but how you do it to...
If the PGM light winks at low RPMs the voltage going into the battery is
low... check for over heated rec/reg connections...
What causes melted connections is corrosion that builds up between the
quick disconnect pins generating resistance enough to melt the plastic
and insulation and it may go as far to cause a fire...
RC drive
As Larry said they do not have cush drives, the RC30 is the same BUT they do have springs on the clutch basket gear which basically does the same thing as the cush drive. I have a Moriwaki dry clutch on my 30 and it has no springs on the gear, it is VERY on/off with throttle application!
RC drive
I have also found the HRC ecus to be much nicer in on/off throttle application, I have had one std ecu (ED spec) and 3 different HRC(003, 721, 8000) the HRC ecu's calibrations feel much smoother, not that I found anything wrong with the standard one.
PGM
Thanks both, a long time ago my VFR 750 was melting that multi plug (and wrecked the battery). I will check that and then the charge voltage.
Interesting comments about the rear chain- I never noticed the "on/off "
at first but the rear chain seemed way too tight and I was worried about wrecking the drive shaft bearing. Slackened it to the wider limit which must have created the "0n/off" I'll tighten the chain , but not much!
Larry, all that mileage !, is that on one bike or more? and if one bike, did it need any rebuild work on the way?. I know the service intervals relate to racing but it does indicate a quickish wear rate..My VFR has done 95000 miles and it 's still like new ,Honda quality ! but a different use bike.....
Regards all
Terry.
Interesting comments about the rear chain- I never noticed the "on/off "
at first but the rear chain seemed way too tight and I was worried about wrecking the drive shaft bearing. Slackened it to the wider limit which must have created the "0n/off" I'll tighten the chain , but not much!
Larry, all that mileage !, is that on one bike or more? and if one bike, did it need any rebuild work on the way?. I know the service intervals relate to racing but it does indicate a quickish wear rate..My VFR has done 95000 miles and it 's still like new ,Honda quality ! but a different use bike.....
Regards all
Terry.
PGM and oil
Thanks Larry, great reveal on oil spec and mileage, mine will have the oil changed shortly as it still has its' "as purchased" oil. There's no way I will do big mileage on the RC45, at 68 and with back problems, this is a "have one now or never" purchase. I've been into Honda's since 1962, finally got the ultimate.!!
Regards,
Terry.
Regards,
Terry.
PGM F1
Well, had some brilliant rides this summer but with that occasional annoying slight stumble and quick flash of the pgm light. So, finally got round to looking at the reg/rec connector. Sure enough, as Larry pointed out, rusty and overheat signs. Soldered out the connector block and now the red light shows constant with the bridge wire in. Sorted.
One problem, in the bundle where the rear lamps plug in, there is a very thin brown wire with white tracer, it's not plugged in to anything and I can't see where it could possibly go.
Any ideas anyone before I put the seat unit back on ?
Regards all, Terry.
One problem, in the bundle where the rear lamps plug in, there is a very thin brown wire with white tracer, it's not plugged in to anything and I can't see where it could possibly go.
Any ideas anyone before I put the seat unit back on ?
Regards all, Terry.
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Busy Little Shop
- Advanced Member
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Thu Nov 26, 2009 7:07 am
- Location: California USA
Re: PGM F1
Cheers Terry to your brilliant rides... here's to many more next summer...
The license plate light has a Br/W (brown with white trace) and a G (green)
wire and is often disable due to tail cowl mods...
I modified my light assembly by replacing the opiate plastic with clear so the
tail light bulbs now illuminate my license plate... I now used the Br/w and G
license plate wires to power my accessories like radar detector and satellite radio...
The license plate light has a Br/W (brown with white trace) and a G (green)
wire and is often disable due to tail cowl mods...
I modified my light assembly by replacing the opiate plastic with clear so the
tail light bulbs now illuminate my license plate... I now used the Br/w and G
license plate wires to power my accessories like radar detector and satellite radio...
Tail lamp
Spot on Larry, I had a look at the tail lamp and saw that there was a green to it, under the green was the home terminal for the B/W. It was hidden underneath , tight against one of the sensor bodies. Someone had been at it before and it was a wrong fit terminal that would not stay on so a strip and sort it out happened. All good now.
Regards from the UK,
Thanks again, Terry.
Regards from the UK,
Thanks again, Terry.