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Force-V4 Forum Index » RC45 Discussion » Cold start issue.
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Busy Little Shop
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Joined: 26 Nov 2009
Posts: 487
Location: California USA

  

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2019 4:45 am    Post subject:  


Hiya Mike...

Start with the battery for it's the weakest link in the whole system... To
determine the condition of an Maintenance Free battery give it a
refreshing charge... wait 30 minutes... measure terminal voltage...

12.8 or higher is a good battery...
12.0 to 12.8 is a insufficient charge... recharge...
12.0 or lower... battery unserviceable...



Next check the RC45 Charging System...





Finally jumper the RC45 service check for Codes...


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Larry L
94 RC45 #2 / RC30 #44
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hollo



Joined: 01 Nov 2009
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Location: Berkshire , UK

  

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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2019 4:56 pm    Post subject:  


Hello Larry , thanks for taking the time to add all the detail in your reply . I can confirm it's not the battery . It's new and fully charged , it was cranking it over like a good'um all the time . I only stopped trying to start it after about 10 minutes , as I did not want to drain it.
Mike .
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Busy Little Shop
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PostPosted: Thu May 09, 2019 12:11 am    Post subject:  


You're welcome Mike...
I'd would not begin troubleshooting unless the battery's starting voltage is
greater than 13 volts and the charging system is steady at the prescribe
14.0 to 14.8 @ 5,000 rpm because it is the logical component to your
intermittent problem... at this junction I think we can say that all new parts
failed to fix the root problem...

plugs (3rd set!)
cam sensor
coolant sensor
4 x throttle body inlet rubbers

That would suggest a corroded electric connection is intermittently
preventing the full transfer of volts to the point of hard starting...

My RC45 corroded connections even in sunny California...



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Larry L
94 RC45 #2 / RC30 #44
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hollo



Joined: 01 Nov 2009
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Location: Berkshire , UK

  

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PostPosted: Sun May 12, 2019 4:37 pm    Post subject:  


I've checked the battery and it's all OK . I tried to start it again today , it turns over all nice and very quickly and almost catches for a about 1 second , but then it doesn't start . Lots more backfiring and I also got a loud bang or two , so at least the fuel is getting through .
I've decided to try a local bike shop , as they will also have to come to collect it .
I don't want to just change the plugs , as this could possibly cure the starting issue for now , but doesn't fix why it won't start . It's just so frustrating , nothing some more petrol and a box of matches won't fix.
All is not lost , I fired up my RC30 today , and it started first try , so currently it's Carbs 1 - Fuel injection 0
Mike
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Busy Little Shop
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PostPosted: Mon May 13, 2019 5:06 am    Post subject:  


I know how it feels Mike when your prize won't start... too bad we are so far apart or I'd turn those frustrations into joy... for what its worth here are steps to troubleshoot according to Honda...


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Larry L
94 RC45 #2 / RC30 #44
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hollo



Joined: 01 Nov 2009
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Location: Berkshire , UK

  

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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 7:16 pm    Post subject:  


Thanks Larry , I'll update this thread of what the bike shops says when they collect it next week
Mike
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Busy Little Shop
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PostPosted: Wed May 15, 2019 7:56 pm    Post subject:  


You're welcome Mike... all it needs is some knowledgeable maintenance...
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Larry L
94 RC45 #2 / RC30 #44
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http://s1036.photobucket.com/user/BusyLittleShop/library/ShangriLa?page=1
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hollo



Joined: 01 Nov 2009
Posts: 17
Location: Berkshire , UK

  

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 5:40 pm    Post subject:  


Well it was the plugs . Race plugs were fitted which are not as long as standard ones by about 3 or 4 mm, so the thinking is that the spark is not in the hottest part of the flame , so you are getting a build up of un-burnt fuel.
Also when the bike was started from cold in the dyno shop they did not use the choke , where as i used 100% choke and no throttle , I don't know if this also added to the problem. i'll start another topic on this subject to try and get feed back from other people
On the bright side , it's now running like a dream , and the 50 odd mile ride back in the rain today , was one of the best rides I've had in a long long time . not much traffic , lovely sweeping 'A' roads and a sweet bike

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Busy Little Shop
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Joined: 26 Nov 2009
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Location: California USA

  

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 09, 2019 5:11 am    Post subject:  


Glad its running like a dream and you finally got to kick it and wick it...

The book calls for CR9EHVX-9 which is an Iridium NGK... standard NGK
is CR9EH-9... I believe either one will do...

Iridium is the rare among Earth's crust which is another way to say
it's expensive... it is employed in spark plugs because it resist tip
wear and it can handle the highest temperatures of combustion... the
manufacture does not list a performance gain other than a new plug
will always fire more efficiently than an old plug...

A engine tuner will read your plugs to confirm they are operating in the
correct heat range... the sign they look for is if the tip is getting hot enough
to self clean... even though this plug is oily the tip has self clean which
means its running at optimal temperature...



CR9 is a cold performance plug which means less surface is exposed to the
heat of combustion and the heat transfer to the head is quicker...

If a plug overheats (white tip) expect pre ignition...

If a plug under heats (dark tip) expect fouling...

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Larry L
94 RC45 #2 / RC30 #44
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http://s1036.photobucket.com/user/BusyLittleShop/library/ShangriLa?page=1
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